Fat is perhaps the most reviled, most misunderstood culinary component. Let's sip our bacon martini and review the good, the bad, and the ugly of fat in various foods. No doubt many will recoil at the thought but, the bacon-makes-everything-better trend underscores the allure of many types of fat: flavor. In the case of bacon, it's umami and salt, two things humans are hard-wired to crave.
Whether you enjoy bacon in your cocktails or prefer it candied, among some spiced nuts, along side the drink, the allure of fat is undeniable. Recent experiments in dairy-free cooking and the prize Moulard duck with its luscious rendered fat, have renewed my resolve to share some fat news.
As devotees of Charcuteapalooza and other meat preservation trends can tell you, fat is critical. Chefs will also sing the praises of fat, proper types, proper qualities and many are bringing back old traditions as the dining public wises up.
The time seems right for sharing a beautiful resource any serious home cook should have on their shelf: Fat - An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, with Recipes. (Ten Speed Press, 2008) Author, chef and a gentle story teller Jennifer McLagan opens her book with "For all the Jack Sprats out there- you're wrong!"
Good Fat, Bad Fat
First, let's be clear what fat we're talking about. Bad fat (saturated and trans fats) will block your arteries, add weight and generally detract from good health.
Good fat, on the other hand, promotes healthy arteries, is essential to cellular function, improves hair and skin. We have heard of Omega 3 fatty acids - the good fat. We've learned of MUFAs the monounsaturated fatty acids as in olive oil, also good. One of the biggest misconceptions about fat is that cholesterol is bad. Many people avoid foods that are high in cholesterol, when the biggest influence on blood cholesterol level is the mix of fats in your diet—not the amount of cholesterol you eat from food.
Duck Fat, Goose Fat, and Ariane Daugin
There is both anecdotal and some emerging scientific data that fat from ducks and geese is different from fat of chickens, or other animals. Daugin asserts that in her native Gascony, high consumers of duck and goose fat, high cholesterol related health problems were largely unknown until war rations introduced butter into their diet. A recent experiment replacing butter with duck fat in chocolate chili brownies was a smash hit. (Link below.)
Fish Fat - Oils in Salmon are Heart-Healthy
The health benefits of the Omega 3 fatty acids are not only well-documented but they also outweigh the health risks that people worry about, such as mercury. The larger culprit is PCBs which are at least if not more dangerous, but mercury seems to have captured the attention of the public.
Lardo, Pork Fat
For centuries, our ancestors in many parts of the world consumed pork fat. Rendered leaf lard, the pork fat from around the pig's kidney is highly prized for pie lovers. Pork fat in heritage breed pigs is often shocking to customers used to commercial, lean pork. But a nice thick layer of fat indicates the pig was raised slowly. Fat from pastured animals has a healthier profile than fat from confined animals.
Beef Fat
Suet, or beef fat, is nearly as demonized as pork fat. One can choose grass-fed beef to ensure a healthier fat and eat better quality beef less frequently if you are concerned about reducing the overall intake of unhealthy fats.
Olive Oils
The healthy qualities of olive oil cannot be denied. The challenge is to replace unhealthy trans fats with this healthy monounsaturated fat, rather than to add additional fat to the diet. One example often used is to dip your bread in olive oil rather than slather butter on your bread. One might also forego bread, eat some crudité or sip some soup instead, then enjoy dinner with proper amounts of healthy fats.
Sources
Jacqueline Church - Award-winning writer, speaker, teacher on topics at the intersection of gourmet and sustainable food issues.
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