Meeting the sustainable seafood rock star, Chef Barton Seaver, at the Southern Exposure Greenville Event fed two cravings. One was to try the salt-crust roasting technique at home. The second was to share his success serving good food from healthy oceans. If you are in D.C. on business or pleasure, be sure to try his restaurant, HookDC, for dinner or lunch.
Technique:
Baking in salt is not difficult. You may have seen it presented dramatically in a restaurant by a waiter working table-side. The salt crust is cracked and removed with flourish. Inside the white salt dome lies perfectly cooked, moist and fragrant fish. Baking fish (or vegetables, even other meats) in a salt crust creates a sort of oven within an oven. The salt seals in moisture essentially steaming the fish inside. Because the salt absorbs the moisture, the texture of the fish ultimately is more like roasted than steamed fish.
The fish:
Begin with the freshest fish you can find. Be mindful of making sustainable choices. Ask the fishmonger to clean the fish but leave on the head and tail. Good choices include: Tilapia, Striped Bass or Trout. Salmon or Arctic Char would also work.
The salt:
Use Kosher salt. For one whole fish (1.5 – 2 lbs pounds) you will need several cups of salt up to 2 lbs, depending on how thick you mound the salt.
Other additions:
You can add herbs and lemon in the cavity of the fish. Herbs can also be mixed into the salt. Try herbes de provence in the cavity and some lavender in the salt.
Steps:
- Place a layer of salt in the bottom of a roasting pan, jelly roll pan or half sheet. It should be sturdy.
- You may add water or egg white to the salt to make a moister salt crust, but it isn't really necessary.
- Place bay leaves on the layer of salt in the pan, place your fish on top. Add whatever herbs you're using to the cavity of the fish.
- Mound the remaining salt over the fish covering completely but leaving the head and tail exposed. You may also cover the entire fish, but leaving the head and tail uncovered may help you removing the crust and creates a more interesting presentation.
To roast:
For about 2 lbs of fish, plan on roasting in a 400 degree oven for about 30 minutes. An instant read thermometer can be inserted through the crust to check temperature if you are uncertain but you will risk breaking your crust. If you are nervous wait until the end of the cooking time and check it only once.
To serve:
- When the fish is done, remove it from the oven. Using your beautiful antique fish knife and fork, or two spoons, break the top crust and remove the skin. Brush or gently roll the skin it will be easy to remove. Your top fillet will now be exposed and you can lift it right off the bone, to a platter.
- Next, you should be able to lift the tail of the fish pulling toward the head. Now, you can remove the bottom fillet to the platter. A pastry brush can be used to gently brush away any salt that remains.
To sauce:
A perfect sauce for this fish is a simple herb-garlic-olive oil mix. A top quality Meyer-Lemon Olive Oil is wonderful and fresh herbs are a must. Chervil is wonderful with fish, and an underutilized herb in American kitchens. Look for it in your produce section, it's mild licorice scent is perfect for a fresh shallot, olive oil, dressing or accompaniment.
- Want to try another easy technique for cooking fish? How about en papillote?
- For an index of articles on the S/O/L/E movement (sustainable, organic, eating local, ethical) among chefs and cooks, see this list.
Jacqueline Church - Award-winning writer, speaker, teacher on topics at the intersection of gourmet and sustainable food issues.
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