Perfect risotto may seem elusive but it is really simple. Two secrets unlock the mystery: picking the proper rice and using the right technique. Upon trying risotto for the first time, many people believe that it must be suffused with cream. This is an illusion supported by the unique properties of risotto riso or rice.
The secrets to perfect risotto are as simple as A, V, C (the rice) and 1, 2, 3 (the steps).
Picking the right Rice - easy as A, V, C - Arborio, Vialone Nano, Carnaroli
One will never produce risotto with long grain rice. Only the specific, short-grained rice varieties possess the proper starches (amylopectin). Many varieties of rice are produced in Italy, Europe’s largest producer of rice.
The Verona region’s rice is 90% Vialone Nano and its soil is particularly suited to this variety. Verona is the designated IGP or Indicazione Geografica Protetta for Vialone Nano. IGP is a governmental designation signifying the superior examples of regional products. Other popular risotto rices include Arborio and Carnaroli, all of these are available in specialty grocers, salumeria or online.
Arborio - has a fatter grain which is harder to overcook, sometimes referred to as the housewive's riso. Perhaps the most common risotto rice. "Superfino" or "extra fine" - refers to the grain size not quality.
Vialone Nano - “Nano” means dwarf in Italian, indeed these grains are short and plump. Like Arborio, will absorb 2-3 times its weight in liquid. Favored for loose fragrant risottos such as saffron-scented Milanese or a truffled risotto. Loose style risotto will create “waves” in the pot and is called “all’onda” in Italian. This is how risotto should be. Not dry, but loose. Designated as “semifino”.
Carnaroli - also called the king of rice, it has more elongated grains (though still a short-grain rice) and produces a slightly drier risotto. Can be used in timbale or salads. Carnaroli is “superfino" or "extra fine".
The second Secret to perfect Risotto: Technique. Easy as 1, 2, 3
While risotto can be suffused with luxurious ingredients such as saffron or truffles, an elegant and comforting risotto doesn’t have to break the bank. Part of what makes a risotto so wonderful is the creamy melange of rice and flavoring agents added to it.
Three basic steps are used to make risotto:
First, the onions or shallots (and sometimes other aromatics, known as soffritto) are softened (but not browned) in butter and/or olive oil, to which the rice is added. The rice gets a fine coating of the fat which controls how quickly it will absorb the liquids added next.
Second, or next, add about a cup of wine (or very good vermouth such as Vya.)
Third, or finally, add hot broth, stock or water about a cup at a time, stirring as the rice absorbs the liquid, before adding the next cup.
At the end of the cooking time, you’ll see the grains of rice change color and tasting them you’ll be able to tell when they have reached al dente perfect texture. Mantecato or the addition of a knob of butter and a bit of parmigiano-reggiano will add the final touch.
There you have the simple secrets to perfect risotto, or risotto perfetto. It's as easy as A, V, C and 1, 2, 3.
Jacqueline Church - Award-winning writer, speaker, teacher on topics at the intersection of gourmet and sustainable food issues.
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