Dine on Indian food fit for royals. Since 1926 Veeraswamy is the London’s oldest surviving Indian restaurant. Recognized by critics, loved by stars.
Where London’s fashionable Regent Street meets Swallow Street; and one floor above the bustle you can be transported to a make-believe Indian palace where Indian and English aristocracy mingle. Traditional Indian food with a few modern touches is served in a very chic atmosphere. Veeraswamy was “reincarnated” in 1979. Deep jewel-toned chandelier sconces match the actual antique headdresses that adorn the walls. Silver and gold accents reflect light while little tea candles warm fragrant dishes brought to the tables. Large windows provide a constantly changing view of the smart shoppers and this time of year holiday decorations and entertainment. But the real star of this show is the stunning cuisine.
London's Oldest Restaurant Sees Stars from Hollywood to Michelin
Veeraswamy has long been a favorite of lovers of Indian cuisine. What else would Marlon Brando, King Gustav of Sweden and Indira Gandhi have had in common, one can only imagine. But they were all fans of Veeraswamy which as the story goes was itself the product of the love between a Mughal Princess and the Great Grandson of an English General.
The Masala Group which owns Veeraswamy also owns two sister restaurants serving authentic Indian cuisine in smart casual settings. National Geographic named Veeraswamy as one of the “10 Best Destination & Special Restaurants in the World.” No other UK restaurant is in the top 10. Sister restaurant Amaya has been awarded a Michelin star since 2006.
Veeraswamy Boasts Flavors from North and West India, and Beyond
Spices are mixed and ground daily and the dishes reflect most all the regions of India, though curiously, the website takes care to note they do not feature South Indian cuisine. Vindaloo which is often made with lamb here in the U.S. is beautifully updated featuring roast duck here (£18.50). A touch of genius, this innovation is one that stays true to the origins of the dish while combining the savory duck with the spicy sauce.
The Portuguese influence is well integrated in the cuisine of Goa and the name “vindaloo” is said to originate from Vin d’ahlos in Portuguese. A pork dish, vindaloo was pork marinated in red wine or red wine vinegar and the addition of spices and often potatoes were later incorporations. At Veeraswamy, the piquant sauce hinted at tamarind flavor and was more complex than one often finds in typical curry houses.
Another revelation was the Hyderbadi Biryani (£18.50). This is the original recipe served in the restaurant. Softly marinated lamb is layered with rice and cooked tightly sealed to steamed perfection, all the spices and flavors permeating the meat and the rice.
Saag is a pureed spinach dish that often includes paneer (a type of cheese) or potato or chickpea. Here the saag was a bright green indicating skilled blanching rather than a simple sauteeing of the spinach which is more common and results in a dull olive green color. Hints of coriander leaf (cilantro, as it’s known in the US) and fenugreek elevated this saag to a delicious smooth sensuous dish (£7.00).
For dessert traditional kulfi ice cream (£6.75) was offered with either candied banana or chocolate. Teas are of the highest quality and served in sizeable individual glass tea pots, a nice relaxing end to an exquisite meal. Assam or Darjeeling are just two of the teas (£3.00ea) offered and a full list of after dinner drinks is also available. Given the full cocktail and wine list you may choose to begin your meal with a Cosmopolitan with its bright fruit and tart flavors to open the palate (£8.00). This one was light, not overly alcoholic nor overly sweet. A proper twist, rather than the ubiquitous, pithy hunk of rind, shows the care given everything in this fine establishment.
In fact, the only thing missing was a welcoming smile at the first level front podium, perhaps it was the cold wind that swept it away. Don’t let that stop you from enjoying a most wonderful meal from beginning to end, gracious service and fine food throughout.
Giving Back?
On each table is a card for the Magic Bus Charitable Organization. Between Thanksgiving and December 30th your author has set up her own charitable giving event. To read more about “Skirting Hunger” click here.
Veeraswamy
- Lunch and pre/post theatre set meal option of £17.50 for 2 courses, in addition to normal à la carte menu. (This is available Monday-Saturday).
- There is a special Sunday menu consisting of Indian family favourite dishes at £22 for a 3 course meal for you to select from the Sunday a la carte menu.
- In general, meals at Veeraswamy will run £55 per head for a 3 course à la carte meal including wine and service for dinner, and £35 for lunch.
Veeraswamy, Mezzanine Floor, Victory House?99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS? (entrance on Swallow Street)
Open every day
Monday-Friday 12 noon – 2.15 pm (last orders). & 5.30 – 10.30 pm
Saturday 12.30 – 2.30 pm (last orders) & 5.30 – 10.30 pm
Sunday 12.30 - 2.30 pm. (last orders) & 6.00 – 10.00 pm
tel: +44 (0) 20 7734 1401 fax: +44 (0) 20 7439 8434
Jacqueline Church - Award-winning writer, speaker, teacher on topics at the intersection of gourmet and sustainable food issues.
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